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Qadisha, one of the deepest and most beautiful valleys in
Lebanon, is indeed a world apart. At the bottom of this wild,
steep-sided gorge runs the Qadisha River, whose source is
in the Qadisha Grotto at the foot of the Cedars. Above the
valley and famous Cedar grove towers Qornet Es-Saouda, Lebanon's
highest peak.
The Qadisha Valley begins at Bcharré village, which marks
the start of a deep geological fault whose extending valleys
reach out of sight. All the accumulated water from these smaller
valleys flows into the Qadisha River, which runs through the
valley towards Tripoli and the sea. At Tripoli, the name of
this river changes to the Abou Ali River. The name Abou Ali
is related to the name Fakhr el Mulk Abi Ali Ibn Ammar, who
was the last Emir of Tripoli during the Fatimid period at
the dawn of the Crusades.
The Qadisha Valley houses some of the most important early
Christian monastic settlements in the world. Rock-cut chapels,
grottoes, and hermitages, many painted with frescoes dating
back to the 12th and 13th centuries, are tucked into the steep
walls. Among the notable monasteries located in the valley
are the Monastery of Mar Antonios Qozhaya, the Monastery of
Saydet Haouqa, the Monastery of Qannoubine, and the Monastery
of Mar Elisha. |
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The word Qadisha comes from a Semitic root
meaning "holiness;" consequently, Wadi Qadisha means
the "Holy Valley." This name may have its roots long
before the Christian era. It is possibly related to “The Holy
Baal,” a Semitic god to whom a large temple in Tripoli was dedicated
during the Roman era. In this Tripoli temple, "The Holy
Baal" was known as "The Holy Zeus."
From the prehistoric periods to the Roman era, people lived
in the caves and rock shelters scattered all over the Qadisha
Valley. At the dawn of the Christian era, when the new Christian
religion was introduced into the valley, these caves and rock
shelters were transformed into chapels, hermitages, and monasteries.
Generations of monks, hermits, and ascetics found asylum here.
These religious men belonged to various confessions that
grew out of controversies over the nature of Christ during
the early Christian era. Among them were the Nestorians, the
Monopysites, the Chalcedonians, and the Monothelites. The
Nestorians believed that Christ had a human nature until his
baptism in the Jordan River, thus refusing the attribute of
Mary as the “Mother of God” and only accepting her attribute
as the “Mother of Christ.” The Monopysites, or Jacobites,
believed that Christ has a unique nature in which the divine
almost prevails over the human. The Chalcedonians believed
that Christ incorporates two natures, the divine and the human,
and consequently Mary can be considered the “Mother of God.”
Others, called Monothelites, believed that Christ has only
one will, which is the Divine Will. These different communities
were always arguing and fighting about the meaning of religious
terminologies, which differed according to each group's language.
In addition to the Christians, Muslim Sufis also lived in
the Qadisha Valley. According to Ibn Joubeir, an Andalusian
traveler who visited the area during the 12th century A.D.,
the Christians of the mountains provided food and provisions
to the Muslims who chose to isolate themselves from the world
in the valley. At that time, the valley used to echo the prayers
of its inhabitants, each one in his own language: Greek, Arabic,
Syriac, and Ethiopian.
Visiting the Valley
At the town of Tourza the Qadisha Valley divides into two
branches, each named after a monastery: the Wadi Qozhaya branch
leads to Ehden and the Wadi Qannoubine branch leads to the
Cedars. A path runs along the bottom of the Qadisha Valley
through an area called Bain an-Nahrain (“Between the Two Rivers”),
where Wadi Qozhaya meets Wadi Qannoubine. From here, trails
lead to various sites inside the valley. You can also start
from the top of the valley and take one of the numerous paths
to the bottom.
Visiting all the sites in the Qadisha Valley may take several
days. This brochure invites you to spend one day visiting
the major sites in the valley and its immediate surroundings.
You can drive a car from Tourza to Haouqa via Ehden, then
on to the Monastery of Mar Antonios Qozhaya (A). After visiting
the monastery, drive back to Haouqa and park your car near
the village church. A trail begins at Haouqa, leading down
to the medieval Monastery and Oratory of Saydet Haouqa (B),
then to the Church of Saint Marina (C), and the Monastery
of Qannoubine (D).
After visiting the Monastery of Qannoubine, you can stop
at a small restaurant situated at the bottom of the valley
to the right side of the trail. Ask there for a taxi to drive
you back to Haouqa. On the way up, you can visit the Monastery
of Mar Elisha (E), the Museum of Gibran Khalil Gibran and
the Oratory of Saydet el-Derr (F) in Bcharré, and the village
of Hadchit. |